Izakaya: the complete guide to the Japanese pub

The izakaya (居酒屋) is the Japanese pub: the place where people go to drink, eat small things and spend time with friends or colleagues. It’s not a restaurant in the conventional sense, because alcohol is as central as the food. It’s not just a drinks bar, because the kitchen is part of the whole thing.

It’s the format where I’ve spent the most time in Japan. After years living in Yokohama, I still find the izakaya the most comfortable place to understand how Japanese social culture works outside of working hours.

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The otoshi: the snack that arrives without ordering

The first thing that will arrive at your table before you’ve ordered anything is the otoshi (お通し). It’s a small dish, almost always cold, that comes with the first drink. It might be edamame, tofu, a small salad, something pickled, or anything else.

The otoshi is not a gift. It’s charged automatically, usually ¥200–500 per person. It’s the equivalent of a cover charge or table fee, and in Japan it’s so normalised that it rarely gets mentioned until you see it on the bill.

If you want to avoid surprises, you can ask how much it costs when you arrive. In practice, it’s simply part of the system.

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Getting in and sitting down

Izakayas have different types of seating:

Counter (カウンター): for solo visitors or couples. You face the kitchen, can talk to the cook and the atmosphere is more intimate.

Low tables with floor cushions (座布団): you sit on the floor on cushions. Shoes come off when entering this area.

Standard tables: the most common format at chains and larger venues.

Zashiki: private rooms separated by shoji (sliding paper panels). Ideal for groups.

When you enter, the staff will ask how many people you are (nannin desu ka?) and take you to your table. In large chains there’s usually a touchscreen or QR code at the table.

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How ordering works

At most izakayas you order everything from the table. At modern venues, by tablet or QR code; at more traditional ones, by calling the server.

To call the server: the standard is sumimasen (すみません), which simply means “excuse me.” It’s perfectly correct and not rude in any way, and one of the handful of phrases worth knowing if you’re eating out without speaking Japanese. At venues with a call button, press the button on the table.

Orders usually arrive as they’re prepared, not all at once. It’s normal to order in several rounds over the course of the evening. There’s no obligation to order everything upfront.

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The dishes you shouldn’t skip

Izakaya food is designed to share and to go with drinks. Portions are small and you order several things at once.

Edamame (枝豆): salt-boiled soy beans in the pod. The most basic, cheap and addictive appetiser at any izakaya. Pop the pod open with your teeth, eat the beans and leave the pods on the plate.

Karaage (唐揚げ): Japanese fried chicken marinated in soy sauce and sake. One of the most popular dishes. The meat stays juicy inside and the crust is crispy.

Yakitori (焼き鳥): chicken skewers grilled over charcoal. Different cuts: mune (breast), momo (thigh), negima (chicken and spring onion), tsukune (chicken meatball), kawa (crispy skin). Ordered either with salt (shio) or with sauce (tare).

Gyoza (餃子): Japanese pan-fried dumplings, crispy on one side and steamed on the other. Eaten with soy sauce and rice vinegar.

Agedashi tofu (揚げ出し豆腐): tofu fried with a thin starch coating, in dashi broth. Light and soft, a good contrast against the richer dishes.

Dashimaki tamago (出汁巻き卵): rolled egg omelette made with dashi. More airy and tender than a regular omelette. At good izakayas it’s a test of the kitchen’s quality.

Sashimi of the day: many izakayas have a daily selection of raw fish. Cheaper than at a specialist sushi restaurant.

Hokke (ホッケ): grilled atka mackerel. One of the most typical izakaya fish: large, flavourful and inexpensive.

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Drinks: the basics

The first drink is almost always beer, without exception. Standard brands are Asahi, Kirin, Sapporo and Yebisu. Draft beer (nama biiru, 生ビール) is what you order in the first round.

After the beer, the most common options:

Highball (ハイボール): whisky and sparkling water. Suntory Kakubin is the most common. It’s become the most popular drink at izakayas in recent years — lighter than beer and very food-friendly.

Shochu (焼酎): Japanese distilled spirit made from rice, sweet potato or barley. Drunk straight, with water, with cold green tea or with hot water. Lower alcohol content than whisky, higher than wine.

Nihonshu (日本酒): sake. Available hot (atsukan) and cold (reishu). Neighbourhood izakayas usually have accessible options; specialist ones have extensive regional sake lists.

Umeshu (梅酒): Japanese plum liqueur, sweet, with or without soda. A good option if you don’t like bitter flavours.

Nomihodai (飲み放題): all-you-can-drink for a fixed price (usually ¥1,500–2,000 per person for 2 hours). Includes most drinks. Worth it if the group plans to drink, and often the same group ends up at karaoke afterwards.

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Drinking etiquette

Don’t pour your own drink first: pour for others first and wait for someone to fill your glass. In groups, the youngest or the guest typically does the pouring.

The toast is kanpai (乾杯). Wait until everyone has their glass before drinking.

There’s no obligation to keep drinking if you don’t want to. Ordering water or a soft drink at any point is completely fine.

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How the bill works

At most izakayas you pay everything at the end, not round by round as at many Western bars. Call the server with okaikei onegaishimasu (お会計お願いします) or okaikei kudasai.

For groups, the standard approach in Japan is warikan (割り勘): splitting the total equally between everyone, regardless of what each person ordered. Proposing warikan is not impolite — it’s expected. It’s also common for a night to end with a bowl of shime ramen (締めのラーメン) after the last round — our guide to ramen in Japan covers how to order.

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Chains and neighbourhood spots

Torikizoku (鳥貴族): yakitori chain with fixed very low prices (almost everything at ¥360). Good quality, always busy.

Watami (和民) and Tengu (天狗): large chains with varied menus, relaxed atmosphere, easy to find. Not the most exciting but reliable.

Neighbourhood izakayas with no English sign: the best experiences are usually in the small places with no website, tucked under an office building or near a small station. No English menu, but a lot of character.

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FAQ

Do you need to book? For groups of 4 or more, yes — especially on Fridays and Saturdays. Many izakayas have online booking via Tabelog or their own apps. For two people, there’s usually space without a booking outside peak hours.

Can you go alone? Completely fine. Counter seats are designed exactly for that. Going to an izakaya alone with a book or your phone is entirely normal.

Are there options for non-drinkers? Yes. Soft drinks, cold green tea, ginger ale and water are always available. Izakaya food works perfectly well without alcohol.

How much does a night at an izakaya cost? Between ¥2,000 and ¥4,000 per person including drinks is a typical range. At better venues or with nomihodai it can reach ¥5,000–6,000.

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The izakaya is where Japan is least formal. People talk louder, laugh more, the sake moves around the table and the otoshi is already there before you’ve said a word. If you want to see what Japan looks like outside working hours, walk into the first place you find with a red lantern lit above the door.

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Reference prices as of 2026. Otoshi and nomihodai policies vary by venue.