Driving in Japan: licence, car rental and what you need to know
Japan has a train network that covers practically the entire country. For most journeys between cities and for getting around Tokyo, Osaka or Kyoto, a car is unnecessary and often inconvenient. But there are places where trains reach poorly or not at all: parts of the Japanese Alps interior, the more remote stretches of the Izu coast, areas of Hokkaido, many rural onsen. For those destinations, a car completely changes the kind of trip you can have.
Tourists: the international driving permit
Tourists can drive in Japan with an international driving permit (国際運転免許証, kokusai unten menkyo sho) based on the 1949 Geneva Convention. This permit is issued in your home country before travelling.
The international permit is valid for one year from the date of issue. It must always be carried alongside the original home-country licence: both documents together are what authorises you to drive.
Important: the international driving permit based on the 1968 Vienna Convention is not valid in Japan. Some countries issue permits under this convention, not the Geneva one. Check which convention your country uses before travelling.
Drivers from Germany, France, Switzerland, Belgium, Monaco, Taiwan and Slovenia can drive in Japan with their national licence plus an official Japanese translation; they do not need the international permit.
Residents: converting a foreign licence
Residents in Japan who want to drive regularly need to convert their foreign licence to a Japanese one (免許証切替, menkyo sho kirikae). The international permit works for visits, but not as a permanent solution.
The process depends on your country of origin. Japan divides countries into two categories:
Countries with a simplified process (including Spain, Germany, France, the United Kingdom, Australia, New Zealand and Canada): the process involves submitting documentation, a vision test and a basic written exam on Japanese traffic rules. No practical driving test is required.
Countries without an equivalency agreement (including Mexico, Brazil, China and the United States): the process is more demanding and may include a full practical driving test on an official test course. The Japanese practical test is notoriously difficult even for experienced drivers: the circuits are artificial, the criteria very specific, and multiple attempts are common.
The process is carried out at the Driving Licence Examination Centre (運転免許試験場) of your prefecture of residence. It is worth checking the exact requirements for your specific country at the relevant centre before starting, as details can change.
Renting a car
The main rental companies in Japan are Toyota Rent a Car, Nissan Rent a Car, Times Car and Orix. Offices are at most airports and major railway stations.
Online booking from overseas is possible and recommended, especially during peak seasons (Golden Week, August, autumn foliage).
What you need to rent: international driving permit plus original home-country licence. Residents with a Japanese licence do not need the international permit.
Reference price: from ¥5,000 to ¥8,000 per day for a compact car. The price varies considerably by company, season and pick-up location.
Basic insurance is generally included, but it is worth adding the NOC coverage (Non-Operation Charge), which covers the car’s costs if there is a minor accident regardless of fault.
Driving in Japan: the basics
Drive on the left, as in the UK or Australia. The steering wheel is on the right. For drivers from countries where traffic flows on the right, the first day takes adjustment, especially at roundabouts and intersections.
Speed limits are low compared to most of Europe: 60 km/h on national roads, 100 km/h on motorways, 30 to 40 km/h in urban areas. Speed cameras are frequent.
Zero tolerance for alcohol. The legal limit is 0.15 mg/L in exhaled air (roughly 0.03% blood alcohol), but in practice any detectable amount can lead to serious consequences. Do not drive if you have been drinking.
Navigation: Google Maps works very well in Japan in driving mode. Alternatively, Yahoo! Carnavitime is the most widely used app locally and has better real-time traffic data. Rental cars usually include a sat-nav, but the interface may be Japanese-only.
Motorways: tolls and ETC
Japan has an extensive toll motorway network (高速道路). Prices are high: a 100 km journey can cost ¥2,000 to ¥3,000 in tolls alone.
The ETC (Electronic Toll Collection) system is an automated payment card placed in a reader in the vehicle, allowing you to pass through toll gates without stopping. Rental cars normally have the ETC device installed, but the card must be requested separately when renting (there is a small daily charge). It is worth getting: non-ETC toll booths can be slow and require cash or specific cards.
Japanese motorways are comfortable and well signposted. Signs appear in both Japanese and romaji (Latin alphabet). The right lane is for overtaking; staying in it without overtaking is prohibited and can result in a fine.
Parking
In cities, parking is expensive and scarce. Car parks come in two types: conventional (pay on exit) and timed automatic barrier parking (コインパーキング, coin parking). In the latter, a metal bar locks the car when it arrives and releases it after payment at the machine.
Street parking without specific authorisation is generally illegal in urban areas. Illegally parked cars are removed relatively quickly.
At rural destinations and many onsen and attractions in less crowded areas, parking is free or very cheap.
When renting a car is actually worth it
A car makes sense when the destination is not well connected by train, when you are travelling in a group (cost per person drops significantly) or when you want to move freely through rural areas.
Some destinations where a car clearly improves the experience: interior of the Izu Peninsula (beyond where the Izu-Kyuko train reaches), Hokkaido (distances are huge), Tottori and Shimane coasts (Sea of Japan side), rural Tohoku and many mountain onsen ryokan without direct public transport access.
For Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto or Hiroshima, the train is always the better option. The cost of urban parking and traffic congestion make a car more of a problem than a solution.
Traffic regulations and licence requirements can change. Check with the driving licence examination centre in your prefecture or the relevant embassy before starting any application process.
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About the author
Editorial entity
Yen & Zen is written by a Spanish-Japanese couple based in Kanagawa Prefecture, in the Tokyo metropolitan area. We have been in Japan since 2010. The site is a hobby project covering practical calculators and articles about life and travel in Japan, with verified figures and citations to official sources. We are not lawyers, accountants, or licensed advisors; articles here are based on observation, personal experience, and published official rules — not on professional consultation.